Tadapani-Ghandruk (1920 m)
From spooky rhododendron forests to lovely cherry-blossom
Just out of Tadapani we were surprised to read this notice on board nailed onto a tree. This part of the trek was through a thick forest of old rhododendron trees. We were told that a lone trekker was slit by his only guide somewhere in this forest. There were also stories of tourists and trekkers been robbed or extorted by local miscreants.
In our days in the mountains we had never been approached and threatened by any rogues demanding anything from us. We therefore assume that these reported incidents as isolated cases.
The ground in these forests was damp and the air still and cold. Trees were huge and dark and mostly warped and distorted. Plastered in parasitic plants and moss they looked possessed by some spirits. With little sunlight penetrating through the lushly green canopy, the forest was gloomy and eerie by day. By night the forest was probably haunted by wandering souls. I believe so.
But when in bloom, these rhododendron forests actually turn into gardens of dazzlingly beautiful red flowers, seen from the air or from far- I am told. How amazing, slopes and slopes of flowers carpeting these mountains! Well it is to be expected that rhododendron is
Many parts of the path across exposed knotted roots were so beaten that there were series of potholes big and small. And in between there were flights of steps laid with stone slabs haphazardly. These steps were mostly too deep for alternate left right left step by step downhill walk. To ensure soft landing and thus less impact on my feet I resorted to dragging my hind foot all the way. Blisters on my feet are now hurting me bad.
At around
The pavements here were very laid with stone slabs, some measuring 1 m. across. We had come down a thousand steps from somewhere at the edge of the rhododendron forests at the upper end of the settlement to check into a charming hotel with ornamental flowers.
Ghanruk is a Gurung village town. At about 3.30 p.m. Sandra took all of us to visit some better-known places. First we went to the Local Development Office where there was a helipad. Nearby there were lovely native cherry-blossoms in bloom. All these years I had been wrong thinking cheery-blossom can only be found in
Then we visited a Buddhist temple maintained by some locals and after that we went to visit The Old Gurung Museum which houses artifacts used by the Gurungs in the old days.
Here the local school is well-established and their pupils wear very clean and well-pressed uniforms, many complete with white stockings.
Most of the houses and lodgings are built of stone-bricks and solid sawn woods. It is apparent that these Gurungs are fairly skilful carpenters and builders.
From somewhere near our hotel we could look into a broad and deep valley with terraces grown with hill paddy. Up the slopes on the other side there are more villages and farms perched on slopes that curve into the ravine. Houses over there are just as well built as those on our side.
Ghandruk has an ambience of peace and serenity. I would certainly love to take a moonlight walk over Ghandruk’s many winding stone pavements, for tomorrow we will be out of these damned beautiful mountains. But it is too cold to go walking alone. Moreover walking alone in the cold night does not seem romantic. It is sort of crazy, others may so opine. Perhaps someday I can come to stay here again when the moon is silvery bright. Then I will take a moonlight walk, alone or with a partner.
After some liquor and then dressing my blisters I will go to bed, just like my friends.
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