Kagbeni –Jomsom –Marpha (2665m)
Basin full of rocks; blustery dusty winds all morning;
Monasteries and sacred texts; the apple land
So we missed the leg from Muktinath to Kagbeni.
Out of the mountains we have returned to the fold of civilization.
After a sumptuous breakfast we pulled out and were soon trekking along a motorable earth road in the basin of Mustang Khola/Kali Gandaki.
This section is a basin 2-3 km side to side at its broadest, filled with only rocks and stones. The Kali Gandaki here has braided into numerous channels flowing between shoals and islands of shingles, pebbles and stones. Over stretches of deep valleys or gorges these channels reunite and merge into fewer channels and finally one single river to keeping roaring and running through narrow gorges, tumbling over resistant bedrock.
Braided channels in basin full of rocks
Where are the rocks from?]
In the basin of Kali Ghandaki Western Australian Desert
On both sides of the basin are either high slopes or truncated spurs and sheer rock faces. We took photos of some twisted recumbent sedimentary rocks not far out of Kagbeni. Mysterious tectonic forces in long lost times were responsible for the presence and appearance of such mountains and also large quantities of fossils of shellfish even at such high altitudes.
Tectonics and twisted rocks
Mee Poon's photo of twisted rocks
Close by there were some cave-dwellings cut into some cliffs. Our guide told us that some of those were occupied by monks for meditation and others by Tibetan refugees in more recent years. Now those unusual man-made caves are probably left empty.
Grottos/cave-dwellings for monks and refugees from Tibet
We had been able to take many short-cuts along the bank or across the riverbed by stepping on rocks laid over small and shallow streams.
Away from the riverbanks on both sides are tall mountains with snow-clad peaks. On our right were Mt. Tukuche, Mt. Dhaulagir, Thapa Peak and on our left were Mt. Nilgiri and Tilicho Peak near which is the world’s highest lake Tilicho Lake. Other mountain slopes stood just next to the riverbanks.
These mountains follow us everywhere
Soon after we left Kagbeni we run into very strong headwinds blowing upwards the upstream interior. They blew on and on stirring up clouds of sandy dusts. We had to hide behind rocks or turned around and or covered our faces with scarves or our hats pulled over to avoid being choked by dust. At some points I uttered some foul and filthy words in condemnation of the bloody winds just to relieve my anger and frustration.
Guess who? Male or female
Jamie?
These blustery winds reminded me of my cycling trip with my son Tzuo Hann across the Gobi in China. There for days we cycled into headwinds blowing non-stop until we had to get down and pushed our bikes along. Out of utter frustration we cursed the winds with foul and filthy words again and again. We felt good after doing so each time. Please don’t talk about high moral standards and good manners when you are in such dusty winds for hours! [you may read Tzuo-Hann’s “Long Way Home” journal online]
At some places we had to trek on a road cut into rock cliffs. Under construction the road was covered in several inches of powdery and dusty sands. Trucks and jeeps passed us by every now and then raising clouds of dusts that were thick and choking.
Clouds of dust
Road construction in the Kali Gandaki valley has reached Muktinath. Once this valley has become easily accessible by road, would tourists and trekkers still come here? My take is more of them would come here but most of them would be short-stay tourists. Indeed for those whose first love is trekking, the original Annapurna Circuit track is still preserved along the lower slopes on the other side of the river, amidst deciduous trees and lushly green pine trees.
Lying in the trees, the original route
All along the banks settlements and horticulture farms, especially apple orchards, appeared here and there. Despite their proximity to the river plain these settlements and farms had not been affected by seasonal floods during yearly monsoon season. Many cottages served as lodgings for trekkers and tourists. Restaurants were generally tidy, clean and orderly. I must hasten to note that the Himali folks here and elsewhere have managed to keep their rural towns, lodgings free of litters. Animal poops, yes but no discards and plastic bottles and bags.
We walked for many hours on stone pavements through villages and over un-surfaced road leading us to Jom Som. We had come across slogans boldly painted on some rocks by the Himali Maoists demanding autonomy and proclaiming allegiance with China. It was an old issue of unfair distribution of wealth, I thought. These hill tribes were not getting their fair share of revenue from tourism.
It may seem a paradox that while there are Himalis who are originally Tibetans refugees who fled Tibet because of oppression by the Maoist regime in China, there are others wanting to be good friends of the same Maoist Chinese government. Is the Chinese government helping the Maoist Himalis? Yes I guess simply because China wants a friendly neighbor who will not support any Tibetan campaign for an independent Tibet.
Friendship with Maoists of China China
By the time we made it to Jom Som it was past 2 p.m. Gan Che has by now established himself as the fastest among us. I suspect that it is because he has shed at least 15 kg of his blubber and his leg muscles are now much stronger. He looks small and definitely looks light to be carried up. I have reduced my weight too, about 8 kg. I guess. We are all surprised to hear that Shoo Chan and Jamie have each gained 2-3 kg. They must have become more muscular after so many days of walking in the mountains.
After a sumptuous lunch at the far end of Jom Som we then stepped on the well-laid stone pavement leading us to Marpha, along the noisy river flowing right through the heart of Jom Som which is a district centre with a garrison, an airport, some boarding schools and other public services.
Beautiful stone pavement until end of Jom Som
It seems here planes flying and out of Jom Som must do so before 10 a.m. to avoid strong winds which would endanger flights in the valleys. But we did see a plane flying past Jom Som well past noon, after our late lunch today.
We were overjoyed to hear that Marpha was not too far away, about 2 hrs walk. In high spirits we trekked on and got into Marpha through orchards and farms.
There are many shops selling tourists’ things here in Marpha. There are some factories producing apple cider and so on. Around the town there are monasteries in the town itself and on the slopes at the back of the town, some very high up.
The street through Marpha
Bhra Gompa Monastery or just a dwelling dug into a cliff ? So high up for what?
We are very happy to have checked into rooms with attached bathrooms, in Paradise Hotel. Here we can charge our batteries and get free clean drinking water.
After a rare good dinner we turned into a bunch of exuberant trekkers. While most of us were enjoying fresh fruit juice drinks and me the quarter of Jonnie-Walker whisky remaining, we talked loudly about ridiculous tales and cracked stupid jokes and laughed ourselves silly. It was all fun. I haven’t had it for a long, long time.
We are truly happy that we are about to complete the journey on foot! And food and accommodation are getting better and better. I suspect our chief guide has made all these wonderful arrangements purposely towards the end of the expedition to please us so that he and his assistants may be given more tips!
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